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St. Barthelemy
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St Barts is the New St Barts
ADVERTISEMENT
Every once in a while we read in
the travel or lifestyle press that such and such an island or
destination is going to be the "New St Barts" Bluntly, it can't be done,
and here's why not.
What we have is a sophisticated, cultured and luxurious island in the
middle of the Caribbean that is a gourmet's delight and features some of
the best hotels, high end restaurants and most fashionable clubs in the
Americas sprinkled between twenty one pristine beaches surrounded by the
cleanest seas there are.
In brief, St Barts is a haven for the connoisseur, seriously looking for
the best things in life. There are no fast food chains, no high rises,
no casinos, no strip clubs, no all-inclusive resorts and while cruise
ships do visit, they are kept at a discrete distance.
So how would one go about creating a "New St Barts"? On the one hand
recreating the geographical and historical circumstances that gave rise
to St Barts would be a tricky task.
For those of you who don't know the island, a brief outline: 8 square
miles of island about 17 degrees north of the equator, colonized by
French pioneers in the 17th century displacing the Arawaks, the
indigenous Amerindian population.
There is no natural source of fresh water on St Barts, therefore no
effective agriculture, and while the island was indeed a slave trading
port back days and there were slaves in those dark, there were no
sizeable slave based industries, such as sugar or tobacco. The attempts
at agriculture that were tried were doubly foiled by hurricanes and
drought.
As such, what you end up with is not the typical Caribbean notion of
plantations and manor houses with the population split according to
their race. Instead you have a predominately French people farming as
best they can in the countryside, with the English speaking
Afro-Caribbean population concentrated in Gustavia, the capital city.
That there was fishing goes without saying, and even an amount of
piracy, Gustavia being a free port and a convenient place to sell your
booty.
St Barts became Sweden's only colony between 1784 and 1878 and this has
left its mark on the architecture and street names in Gustavia as well
as continuing cultural links. Because of the link with Sweden, St Barts
remains a free port to this day.
From pretty much that time until the 1950s St Barts was pretty much
forgotten about. Becoming officially fully part of the French Republic
in 1946, the island was dependent on Guadeloupe and passed unnoticed
until the arrival of the Rockefellers and Rothschilds in the 1950s and
became a famed and inaccessible retreat for American high society. This
is not a typical history for a Caribbean island.
Since then the island has purposefully courted the upper end of the
tourism market, the reasoning being pure logic: the island is tiny.
The bulk of the island remains in the hands of the descendants of the
French settlers, simply known as Saint-Barths. At a rough estimate the
Saint-Barths make up around half of the population, the other half being
mainly metropolitan French with a sprinkling of other Europeans and
surprisingly few year round American residents.
The Saint-Barths are conservative in nature, wary of hasty changes and
the small size of the community makes it almost impossible for a
charlatan to make a fast buck and disappear. If you want to do business
on St Barts, people have to know who you are and trust you. You live on
your reputation.
St Barts has evolved slowly, in a considered manner to where it is
today. No amount of planning or project managing is going to recreate
that overnight. Another factor to consider when imagining your New St
Barts is that you would have to make it difficult to get to, which is
hardly standard practice in designing a vacation destination.
The airport runway is only 2000 feet long, and the largest plane that
can land has 19 seats.
You can fly in directly from San Juan however the majority of visitors
come in through Sint Maarten, the closest nearby island with an airport
that can handle jets, private or otherwise, then a transfer and a ten
minute hop in small twin engine plane over to St Barts and the famous
roller coaster landing.
To add another factor, the airport closes at sunset. Inconvenient
perhaps, but this means no night flights and thus no airplane noise to
disturb your evening. Ferries are an option, but not overly frequent or
pleasant, and then there are the charter speedboats, which are elegant
and luxurious, but pricy for a 40 minute ride for your average traveler.
St Barts is French. Not just French in culture and language, but fully
part of the French Republic and, for the moment, fully part of the
European Union. There are almost no restrictions for EU citizens coming
to work on St Barts (there are exceptions, but not many).
This gives St Barts opportunities for recruitment that is rare in the
Caribbean, pretty much the whole of Europe as a recruitment pool: from
Portuguese stone masons, to German engineers, to Italian sylists, to
English hoteliers, to Swedish masseurs, to French chefs, this list goes
on.
Purely because of its openness to "foreign" workers Saint Barthelemy has
the pick of a pretty good crop. In terms of security St Barts is
possibly one of the safest places in the world, and this is also easily
explained; The community is small, 8000 people on 8 square miles.
If someone tries to launch a criminal career, they are quickly and
easily identified and, how shall we say, ejected. There is also the lack
of poverty. Bluntly speaking, if you don't have a job, no one will rent
you accommodation, and you are off the island.
As you can see, recreating St Barts would be tough job, and a job that
would be made tougher by the fact that St Barts is evolving. This
subject is treated with mixed emotions. On the one hand the old world
charm of a rustic island is fading, on the other hand the island has to
survive in an ever more competitive world.
The way to do that is to do what St Barts does best, by improving
quality and not following the crowd.
The days of the Mini-Moke have gone. There are now BMW convertibles,
Mercedes and Porsches available to rent. No longer dependant on
Guadeloupe, St Barts now controls its own budgets and there is a frenzy
of widening and repaving the roads and rebuilding dry stone walls.
When people first started visiting St Barts the aircraft would make two
passes over the grass runway. The first pass was to clear the goats, the
second to land. There were no airport buildings to speak of.
You can fly direct to San Juan, or further, in a state of the art
Pilatus Turboprop.
Now the, albeit tiny, airport meets all modern standards and even has,
to the dismay of many, security and baggage checks on departure. The
Port of Gustavia has been completely remodeled and a new Harbor Master's
office built. In addition to the classic sailing yacht regatta, The
Saint Barth Bucket, St Barts now organizes it's very own open to all
comers regatta, Les Voiles de Saint Barth, which is making a mark on the
yachting calendar.
The villas, which make up most of the rental accommodation on the
island, are being refurbished, rebuilt and renewed. You no longer have
the impression that you have stepped into someone else's home, but that
this home was made for you.
Where there was one concierge company on St Barts six years ago, there
are now seven. When a restaurant closes a more innovative one springs up
in its place. It may not be your old favorite, but the spirit of
excellence moves on. So while being the "New St Barts" would be a tough
act to copy, keeping up would be even harder.
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